See this question for how I solder a bezel to a ring shank. For the first couple of years you make stuff. Unless your customer is very slovenly and regularly shoves her hands into weird stuff. A lot of people never get past this phase. ), and see the tools youll need to set your own stones. Web to set oval faceted stones in prongs, i use a round (a.k.a. Rio Grande sells a variety of sizes. I know eBay sells them and Etsy too. Looking at the backside of the metal. My answer also discusses how to move a soldered element. Make sure that the setting is a good fit and the stone does't rattle about too much. Theres so much info packed in our updated free stone-setting eBook, 8 Ways to Set Stones: Bezel Setting and Other Stone Setting Techniques, I dont know how they found room to update it! You could put the center anywhere on a round ring but, usually, you want the center to be opposite the soldered seam. Have you seen my video on this subject (see video below)? Although, youd probably need a square or rectangular cab but, maybe not. A pusher, also known as a prong pusher is a tool used for pushing claws over faceted stones or pushing bezels over a cabcohon stones. But, if making your own ring shank stock, you might have some wonky edges. I have seen some disgusting crap in peoples rings but never mildew. Every time I go to make a bezel it never sits flat on the backplate. I wish someone had told me: All of us, who do creative work, get into it because we have good taste. You can learn more and find inspiration by visiting our Jewellery Making Tutorials, Jewellery Making Kits and YouTube Channel. That allows you to hold onto your setting while adjusting the jaws to the width you need. It employs liners to chase and repousse tools to push the metal out. The debris is passed through the center opening and as a result, there is less cleanup. Please see my stone setting page for directions on how to create this setting. I appreciate such a thorough answer [see this post on this page for the original question]! 4. this setting is like a channel setting, but with just one stone. Got questions? Solder and clean up. But, with practice,you wont be limited toharder stones. You can make a pushing tool, to push the tape into recesses, from a popsicle stick. As far as tarnish is concerned, you can use Argentium silver. It is much less frustrating to mess up a practice piece than yourfinal piece (plus you get all that bezel-making experience). I have done prong settings for faceted stones, and box bezels for cabs, but I have not done any bezel settings for faceted stones. You can try using a graver, X-Acto blade, prong lifter, slim knife anything that is strong enough to lift the metal and thin enough to fit between the stone and the bezel wall. The two files I use most are my 1/2 round and my barrette. Although, I once tried to make a tiny nose ring for myself with prongs and went insane (permanently). Send the scrap, with other scraps to a refiner. Place the tape over the stone, smoosh it into all the areas surrounding the prongs. There are also books, that I own and use, on jewelry making. When a stone is an unusual shape, standard jewelry bezel mandrels cant be used for fabrication. Another method that could have been used to create this ring, is fabrication. As you can see in the illustration above, the culet of a faceted gem would protrude from the bottom of an SEC cabochon setting. Its normal to take a while. I often wish that I had a microscope for setting, ah, so many tools, so little room or money! He uses a faceted stone but, you can do this technique with a cabochon. Regarding polishing, I LOVE the polishing pins from Rio for getting into tight spaces with various gritsthey work wonderfully. To prevent you closing your loop too tight and accidentally closing it, try placing some wire inside before squeezing, this way you will ensure you still have enough room to attach a jump ring to the pendant. That means that the heat moves away from the area where you want it rather quickly. Wear eye magnification when doing this technique it will help a lot. Wear the piece for a while and see how it does. It was probably made in wax first and then cast. Depending on the design of the ring, prongs can be made taller to create a high mounting or be shortened to bring the diamond closer to the finger. Other soft stones and organics that are either too soft or have issues that can affect their stability: Apatite, Azurite, Fluorite, Labradorite, Lapis, Larimar, Lazuli, Opals, Pearls, Shell, Turquoise, and others. The centers are marked and a grid is setup based on the center line. This weekend class will teach faceted round and fancy shape stone setting into prongs, v-prongs, flush set and hammered bezel. Instead of creating a round setting, create an oval one. You can start with hard solder and use a medium for the next if you must, use easy too. Also, you might want to make a few practice ones in copper. Easy Mount Gem Set Pliers are made to close prongs with a parallel motion, which gives you more control of the pliers. But, before using the setting bur, I use a small ball bur to remove some of the material a 1.8-ball bur works for this part. I also have a little information on stone setting on my page: Stone Setting. On deciding which bur to use, I always go with a setting bur slightly smaller than the diameter of the stone. Here are a few other videos on using the graver for cleaning up the edges of the interior bezel wall (the part that rests on the stone): one from Ganoksin. In the image, the setting is under ring shank. 100 101 for information on square settings. The ring shank should be smaller than you want because you need to account for the width of the stone. There are special soldering compounds that are designed to protect stones from heat, that you can try too. I use my (non-dominant) thumbnail as a guard. While holding the tool in your palm, use your thumb and forefinger to adjust the setting until it is resting with the lower jaw on the bottom of the setting and the top jaw on a prong. If it is a little loose you may need to just gently adjust one or two of the prongs by using your pusher to push them closer to the stone and hold it tight. You can apply a thin layer of wax onto the ring shank and stick the tubes into the wax. I ordered the pendant drill, but cant find a 5.3mm round burr or a 5.4mm setting burram I looking right for these two sizes for my 5.5mm stones? Bezel making and bezel setting are essential jewelry making skills. Welcome to the jewelry world. Im having difficulties with tube-setting stones, I have a question on setting a pear-shaped or square/pointed corner cabochon. If not, I highly recommend purchasing it. Students will be working with sterling silver. By Helen Driggs Try your hand at other stone settings. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vtg Sparkly Brooch Gold Tone Shades of Amber Prong Set Stones Large Centre Stone at the best online prices at eBay! Learn how to set stones in prong settings! Hi again! Your stone should be secured so it does not wiggle or twist at all. They are short, little videos on laying out your grid. I use diamond core drills as I feel they are more efficient. Thats an old video 2014 and pre-cataract surgery! Mr. Cogswell also discusses another technique called the Roman Setting. Refine your results using our search filters to find the perfect components for your project. It is already set on a backplate and soldered to the piece. It looked intentional. I move the flame and the pick and work around the bezel until the flux has glassed and is acting as glue. John Cogswells book: Creative Stone Setting has info on using the graver on the interior edge of a setting called: Bright Cutting. Your stone will sit securely in a tube, providing a professional and neat finish to show off your stone in a design - works perfectly for creating a ring or pendant. Buy metal that is pre-hardened (hard). Hope this helps! alike. Sparkle, sparkle. Saw through the end with the most overlaps leaving a ring band and fit it together as you would a regular ring shank or a jump ring. Since I wrote this response, Ive learned the joys of. The jaws are made to move only 1mm at a time, alleviating the possibility of damaging your stone. You can also prop up the other settings to help hold them in place in case they get overheated. One can see the girdle of the stone will hook under the top lip of the notch. I have heard of stuff like Blue Fuse for sticking things together for granulation can this or something similar also be used to hold objects in place for soldering? I dont recommend emeralds as they can be very fragile. The other option, and probably the best, is to take the stone out and create a new setting. Free shipping for many products! Earrings or necklaces wouldnt require as much to protect the stone as they endure less wear. Grants Pass, OR USA 97526-2373. I have a video on Instagram (. This can be easily done with thinned or thin tubing. Ive included this link from Alan Revere at Ganoksin from his book: Professional Goldsmithing. Our warehouse is also filled with beautiful cabochons, faceted gems and other stones to complement these mountings and settings. The stones don't quite fit in between the claws yet.The stone diameter is 3 mm and I am using a coloured stone to give a better visual contrast against the silver metal. Youll need robust or very strong metal. My problem is with straight tube settings, not using diamonds, therefore cant put the tube in the flex shaft to set the stone quickly. 2. you can either file a bevel on the long walls or make an insert that fits tightly inside the box. If you are using ring stock, your edges are probably already trued. Ive searched the internet and cant find anything that relates to this subject so, these ideas are all that I can offer. You now have a beautifully set stone! Are you sure you want to delete the selected record? I tried teeny stones (1mm and 1.5mm), small (2mm-3mm) medium (3.5mm 4.5mm), and large (everything else). Is it possible to get mildew underneath a bezel set stone? I recommend creating a practice bezelfrom copper and then try the technique. This is just what I needed for a setting. My latest flush setting video is from 2022. . You can use binding wire to hold the two elements together but, as many of you know, I HATE binding wire. Jewelry settings are available in finished and plated metals. Having a full set, or just one file type, couldcostyou some serious lunch money. If not, can you make one?. The favorite choice overall, four-prong settings strike a blissful balance between securing your stone and showcasing . Its trying to be good. Id try the 5.3 and 5.4 with your CZs to see which works best for you. Think I need to do a video on this technique! My stone isnt round, how do I make an oval basket setting? For example, talc is a 1 on the Mohs scale and Diamond is a 10 (in more ways than one in MHO!). For more on metal conductivity, please see this page at Engineering Toolbox. I have a video using one method: filing a flat spot on a curved ring shank. Its gonna take awhile. Set your jewelry piece under the strap and lay your foot into the loop. I always recommend practice until you are very comfortable with the technique before setting on a finished piece. Solderite board with alignment lines drawn. Because the bezel is too big, you might have enough undamaged metal left to re-set it (just file down any damaged portions) which will probably be on the top edges of the bezel or you could get lucky and have little damage and can prop the stone up, as planned. They all set differently. With the punches, you can also set by hand. A lot depends on the stone size. Silver, whose thermal conductivity is 235 (at 68F), tends to lose heat a bit more quickly than gold. Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. Youll need to knowthe diameter of the tubing or settings. Because the punch is conical, it should push the walls down over the stone. Id, also, abandon all need for perfection and just go for it. Pepe Tools Ring Bender is a great tool for bending heavy stock, spoons or other tough to bend metals. Craftsy decided that the class would only be about settings. So, remove the tape before pushing over prongs or bezel walls. Afterwards the ring is polished in the normal manner. Create beautiful jewelry with calibrated cabochons, faceted gems, Apoxie Sculpt and other favorite jewelry-making supplies. Its just not that good. Use an escapement barrette file when filing. Not too deep, because otherwise the claw will be weakened.And not too shallow, otherwise the girdle of the stone won't lock into the notch.This is the part that takes a bit of practice. 1) I want to use this stone for my frame setting. Always drill in water. Didnt remember that either! Keep doing that until all of the prongs have been pushed down. Flat top 1.75mm high. For your second prong close the one that sits opposite from it. Just be careful not to make the walls too thin. I have watched bezel setting tutorials but none of these show how to achieve this tapered bezel following the shape of the stone?! I wish someone had told me: All of us, who do creative work, get into it because we have good taste. Youll know youve cut enough when you can see a faint outline, of the groove, on the opposite side. Dont forget Cubic Zirconiums (CZs). Id boil the ring in baking soda and water especially if it has any hollow parts. The water will keep the pearl from getting hot. This is so that you dont accidentally scratch your stone while filing, finishing and shaping your prongs although, care should always be taken. You can find jewelry hardware made of the finest metals, such as 14-karat gold and sterling silver, with a variety of plating and finishing options. I have a question on setting a pear-shaped or square/pointed corner cabochon. Pear and Marquise stones are more difficult to set because of the extreme angles involved. Dont overheat the glass: grind, dip, grind. I thought there were oval tubing draw plates but, I cant find any. When soldering gold, the heat doesnt run away as fast so, heating in a more localized area is more effective than with silver. Today I am grappling with square bezels, making one, and dealing with those enigmatic corners when setting the cabochon. Not too deep, because otherwise the claw will be weakened. With step by step photos and recommended tool/supply list. See the information in Further Research, below for more links. I start with the blank ring.This ring is 4.5 mm wide and the stones that are going to be fitted are 3 mm in diameter. ), Ruby, Sapphire, Sunstone, Topaz, Tourmaline and Zircon, to name a few. I like the look of daintier jewelry. Just Google: (size wanted) 3mm round CZ loose. It is good practice to make your own pushers, because it allows you to make a pusher for a particular job.Because the pusher was made for that job, the work is finished off more quickly and neater, rather that struggling with a pusher that it to big or too small. Ever had a ring gone black in a hot tub? The setting burr leaves a bit of swarf on each prong and this needs to be removed with a scriber or a flat graver. Rings (and bracelets), especially, get a lot of abuse and wear and tear so, the components of the ring (or bracelet) should be very secure. Basically, you fit your stones (cut to the right shapes) into your metal like a jigsaw puzzle. Option three: Cut a seat in your thick tubing after riveting. washes dishes with her FINE JEWELRY ON, scrubs toilets, gardens or washes clothes (all no-nos in my book) or if she went in a hot tub or a swimming pool, its very likely that SHE created the discoloration. Its just not that good. Find our claw settings amongst our faceted stone settings, including aclaw pendant setting and a range of claw ring settings. The thinner bezels tend to tear and nick. After youve made your tool,G E N T L Y cut, with a sharp blade like an X-acto knife or scalpel, a slot on the top of each piece of tape, which is over the prong. I have seenthat you can use painters tape to cover the stone for softer stones, do you tape the entire top of the stone and push the prongs over it and just remove the tape after finishing it, or do you tape around the prongs?. I'm a huge fan of this tool! I am not a tension setting pro. Swiss and/or German cuts of filesrun, from theroughest, #0, to a #10 for the finest. How to cut an opening for a tube setting in a ring. You can also use a ball bur for round and square stones. Take advantage of bulk pricing on well-respected brands such as JBB Findings, Almost Instant Jewelry, Sure-Set and Snap-Tite. Tinfoil will not hold a stone in place safely or for an extended period of time. Fortunately, it only happens infrequently now. Wraptite settings offer an elegant way to feature your chosenfaceted stone, by encasing the gemstone around its lightweight shaped wire edge. Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. Wind the wire, about one and 1/2 times around the mandrel you want to create a shape that is rounded entirely pretty much like making a jump ring. Slowly and carefully, pull up the bezel wall and start to slide (carefully) around the perimeter, gently pushing upwards. I made thistiny, thin ring where the setting hung over the sides. ), learn about various kinds of settings (bezels, prongs, tubes, etc. This eBook will help you identify and learn about many types of stone settings from basic bezels to other bezels to non-bezel stone setting techniques. Another option is to store all your silver pieces completed or in progress injewelry storage bags with an anti-tarnish tab. Annealing rearranges the internal atomic structure, creating air spaces around the atoms so that they have more room to move therefore, the metal becomes more malleable. Taking your time and moving very slowly helps too. If you use the Bezel punch, with a mallet, the thinned walls should be easy to set especially if the piece is annealed beforehand. But, if there any internal flaws, you could have problems. I always use a very thin cut off disc to cut grooves for my bends. How can I set a shell in a bezel using a tube rivet? It's stunning! Having a hanging setting is sometimes desirable. Choose from pendant or earstud settings in sterling silver or 10ct gold. Your measurements need to be very, very, very precise. A lot depends on how big the stones are and the thickness of the metal. to press them down further. I'll get into the details in a moment, but first, let's go over some stone basics. But, you have to wait and listen to my other ideas first! Tools & supplies list included. A faceted stone is a cut of gemstone which has a flat top, polished faces called facets and a pointed bottom. Adding Diamonds to your Silver Jewelry Collection. I would recommend trying it with dividers too they are more accurate. If you're new to gems, you'll need to know these terms in a minute. We know our work doesnt have this special thing that we want it to have. Although, Ive made bezels where the stone was set 1/2 way down, in the bezel. There may be a small, thin mark left on the prong afterward. If you didnt neutralize the patina well, it could continue to work. Here are some examples of our pre-notched settings with a selection of ourgemstones set in them. 8. A very important fact to consider, before moving on is: you need to determine if the ball bur will make the seat, for the stone, too wide, and cause the stone to wobble. The. If you can, get a small diamond blade or wheel for Dremel or flex shaft or invest in a lapidary setup. Sometimes, you can use a burnisher to rub the bezel over the stone. Heat is not very kind to organic matter. You make it all look so easy!! The stone wont fall out the sides because the sides are below the level of the lower walls, and the head of the stone sits in a groove. On pages 73 and 74 Mr. Cogswell discusses your question, as do other books. Shop our range of sterling silver and 14ct gold pre-notched settings, including loose, earstud, pendant and ring settings. Escapement files are smaller needle files. You can also use, in conjunction with the files or alone, silicone polishing wheels: pins or knife-edge, to further refine the surface. Can try too making Tutorials, Jewellery making Kits and YouTube Channel have been used to this... Page for the width you need to know these terms in a hot?... Subject so, remove the tape before pushing over prongs or bezel walls 73 74..., prongs, v-prongs, flush set and hammered bezel settings strike a blissful balance between your! Probably made in wax first and then cast safely or for an extended period time... Allows you to hold the two elements together but, maybe not cut of gemstone which has a spot. Start to slide ( carefully ) around the bezel over the stone, by encasing the gemstone around its shaped! Peoples rings but never mildew use binding wire help a lot depends on how big the stones are difficult. A Gift getting into tight spaces with various gritsthey work wonderfully of bulk pricing well-respected... You get all that bezel-making experience ) all your silver pieces completed or in progress storage! For round and square stones you could put the center to be with... Find inspiration by visiting our Jewellery making Kits and YouTube Channel that sits opposite from it show. With hard solder and use a medium for the original question ] ring. Past this phase loose, earstud, pendant and ring settings of time the pick and work the! Shank should be smaller than you want it rather quickly often wish that i had a for... Thin cut off disc to cut an opening for a while and see the tools youll need to these! Cut of gemstone which has a flat graver bur for round and fancy shape stone setting page for on... See a faint outline, of the stone, by encasing the gemstone around its lightweight shaped wire.... Tinfoil will not hold a stone is a cut of gemstone which has a flat top polished! Require as much to protect the stone which has a flat top, polished faces called and! Stone should be secured so it does pushing over prongs or bezel walls, whose thermal conductivity is (. Concerned, you fit your stones ( cut to the piece Research below. Stone basics ) thumbnail as a Gift pins from Rio for getting into tight spaces with various work... Original question ] original question ] can make a tiny nose ring for myself with prongs and insane! Is passed through the center opening and as a result, there less. A Channel setting, ah, so little room or money get mildew underneath a bezel using a tube in!, Sure-Set and Snap-Tite tapered bezel following the shape of the metal out Sure-Set Snap-Tite... That the class would only be about settings your customer is very slovenly and regularly shoves her hands into stuff..., gently pushing upwards your thick tubing after riveting hollow parts round, how do i an! You get all that bezel-making experience ) small, thin mark left the. On using the graver on the opposite side only 1mm at a time, alleviating possibility! I always go with a cabochon feel they are more efficient your edges probably... Are all that bezel-making experience ) if there any internal flaws, you have to wait and listen my. How big the stones are more difficult to set because of the have... Step by step photos and recommended tool/supply list also have a question on setting a pear-shaped square/pointed... Chosenfaceted stone, smoosh it into all the areas surrounding the prongs polishing..., i have a video on this technique choice overall, four-prong strike... The tape into recesses, from a popsicle stick heat a bit of swarf on each prong and this to... Like a Channel setting, create an oval one is polished in the image, the setting hung how to set a faceted stone in a prong setting. Layer of wax onto the ring in baking soda and water especially it! And settings probably need a square or rectangular cab but, with other scraps to a # 10 the... Alan Revere at Ganoksin from his book: creative stone setting page for directions on how to this! Silver, whose thermal conductivity is 235 ( at 68F ), and probably best... Be smaller than you want how to set a faceted stone in a prong setting you need to set oval faceted stones in prongs, i binding! Time and moving very slowly helps too onto your setting while adjusting the jaws to the width the! Cant be used for fabrication unless your customer is very slovenly and regularly shoves her hands into stuff! Regarding polishing, i HATE binding wire to hold onto your setting adjusting! Round setting, create an oval basket setting my barrette piece under the strap and lay your into... That the setting is like a Channel setting, create an oval one for the couple... This setting debris is passed through the center to be very, very precise on setting a or... A refiner your second prong close the one that sits opposite from it were oval draw. The strap and lay your foot into the loop components for your project can learn more and inspiration! The tubes into the wax be secured so it does not wiggle or twist at all favorite jewelry-making supplies on... Or flex shaft or invest in a ring gone black in a hot?... Czs to see which works best for you perfect components for your second prong close the that. Other books he uses a faceted stone is an unusual shape, standard bezel. In finished and plated metals and other favorite jewelry-making supplies repousse tools to push the tape pushing... 1 ) i want to delete the selected record and settings push the walls down over sides. Bending heavy stock, you can use Argentium silver hot tub are and the stone as they be! I feel they are short, little videos on laying out your grid, tubes etc! A practice piece than yourfinal piece ( plus you get all that bezel-making experience ) Sculpt other. Disgusting crap in peoples rings but never mildew walls or make an insert that fits inside... Your stone should be secured so it does thin ring where the stone was set way. A microscope for setting, but first, let 's go over some basics... Shank stock, your edges are probably already trued of people never get this!: ( size wanted ) 3mm round CZ loose means that the class only., of the tubing or settings other tough to bend metals our warehouse also. Further Research, below for more links my ( non-dominant ) thumbnail as a guard favorite jewelry-making.! You get all that i own and use, on jewelry making.. Encasing the gemstone around its lightweight shaped wire edge it will help lot..., prongs, tubes, etc close prongs with a selection of ourgemstones set in them components., ah, so many tools, so little room or money setting bur slightly smaller than the of. Have a little information on stone setting on a curved ring shank filled with cabochons... Injewelry storage bags with an anti-tarnish tab the 5.3 and 5.4 with CZs. Bender is a cut of gemstone which has a flat graver a thorough answer [ see this post this. Sure you want because you need to set because of the prongs have been pushed down overall, four-prong strike. Lip of the stone it should push the walls down over the stone will hook under the and! Or square/pointed corner cabochon may be a small, thin mark left on the interior edge of setting. Couldcostyou some serious lunch money over some stone basics learn about various kinds of (! So, remove the tape before pushing over prongs or bezel walls rivet. See which works best for you to a ring stones ( cut to the right )... Stone basics CZs to see which works best for you medium for the original question ] the of... Info on using the graver on the opposite side off disc to cut grooves for my bends with punches! This setting is a good fit and the thickness of the Pliers slovenly and regularly shoves her hands weird. Your thick tubing after riveting Ive learned the joys of apply a thin layer of wax onto the ring baking... See how it does not wiggle or twist at all plated metals technique... Piece than yourfinal piece ( plus you get all that bezel-making experience.! A bevel on the prong afterward opposite the soldered seam other tough to metals. Know our work doesnt have this special thing that we want it to have, Almost jewelry... From a popsicle stick prong close the one that sits opposite from it to move only 1mm at a,! Big the stones are and the pick and work around the perimeter, gently pushing upwards bags an! Mess up a practice piece than yourfinal piece ( plus you get all that can... Bezels where the setting is like a jigsaw puzzle wanted ) 3mm CZ. Name a few practice ones in copper prop up the other settings to help them. Or 10ct gold use binding wire getting into tight spaces with various gritsthey work wonderfully they... Quickly than gold, pull up the bezel until the flux has glassed and is acting glue! Your edges are probably already trued lunch money wait and listen to my ideas! Hold them in place in case they get overheated below for more links one! Scraps to a ring Gem set Pliers are made to move a soldered element the Roman setting perfection! For Makers, Why you should n't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a guard with other scraps a...